Highest Good Food Infrastructure

People producing their own high-quality and diverse food is a path to increasing health, biodiversity, and individual and global food security. As part of One Community’s self-replicating and self-sufficient teacher/demonstration communities, villages, and cities and open source botanical garden models, we also see this as a solution to world hunger. This page is the open source portal to all the components necessary to create this.

PAGE UNDER CONSTRUCTION – PLEASE VISIT THE MAIN FOOD PAGE

It contains the following sections related to the Highest Good food®Â Infrastructure:

• What is the Highest Good Food
  
• Why Highest Good Food
• Ways to Contribute
• The Highest Good Food Open Source Portal (collaborative resource and information hub)
• Food-Sustainability Rollout Details
  • Food Sustainability Implementation Details for 3-Person Survey Team
  • Food Sustainability Implementation Details for up to 20 People
  • Food Sustainability Implementation Details for up to 50 People
  • Food Sustainability Implementation Details for up to 100 People
  • Food Sustainability Implementation Details for up to 400 People
  • Food Sustainability Implementation Details for 400+ People
• Resources
• Summary
• FAQ
• Consultants

NOTE: THIS PAGE IS NOT CONSIDERED BY US TO BE A COMPLETE AND USABLE TUTORIAL UNTIL
WE FINISH OUR OWN CONSTRUCTION OF THIS COMPONENT, CONFIRM ALL THE DETAILS, AND ADD
TO THIS PAGE ALL THE RELATED VIDEOS, EXPERIENCE, AND OTHER UPDATES FROM THAT BUILD.
IN THE MEANTIME, YOU CAN HELP US COMPLETE IT ALL SOONER WITH THE FOLLOWING OPTIONS:
INPUT & FEEDBACK | JOIN OUR TEAM | HELP US BUY THE PROPERTY

 

HIGHEST GOOD FOOD SEARCH ENGINE

 

WHAT IS HIGHEST GOOD FOOD

We consider Highest Good food to be maximally nutritious, maximally bio-diverse, fresh, duplicable, space and resource efficient, ecologically and individually healthy food that is far superior to anything found in a typical grocery store. We are approaching this so it caters to vegans, vegetarians, and omnivores. We are also integrating it with One Community’s open source and earth-regenerative botanical garden model. This will provide a foundation for those interested in joining and helping build a global cooperative of people specifically studying, preserving, sharing, and evolving plant species for The Highest Good of All.

Some of the key features and intentions of the One Community Phase I food infrastructure include:

• Large-scale garden to feed 100+
• Large-scale soil amendment strategy
• Extensive hoop house infrastructure
• Developing 100s of food forest acres
• Humane raising of rabbits, chickens, and goats
• Complete integration of all food with the open source botanical garden model
• Comprehensive stewardship of wildlife and maintenance of an apiary/bee colony

Some of the key features and intentions of the One Community Phase II food infrastructure include:

• Artistic designs
• ADA Accessibility
• Multi-functional use
• Inclusion of aquaculture
• Central amphitheater space
• Water collection off of all structures
• Seven different internal growing environments: LSAQ | W1 | W2 | W3 | Z1 | Z2 | TA

 

WHY HIGHEST GOOD FOOD

One Community’s Highest Good food designs demonstrate what truly ethical and carefully planned land stewardship is capable of. This is foundational to our strategy for global change methodology and an evolution of sustainability that integrates this food component with the 7 sustainable village models and open source Duplicable City Center. The ultimate result of this will be holistic living models demonstrating sustainable production of food with unparalleled nutrition and diversity. It will provide enough volume and variety to feed all of One Community and our visitors. Additional benefits and reasons we have for doing this are:

• Educating the general public
• Financial saving
• Conscious stewardship
• Personal health improvement
• Global biodiversity improvement 
  
• Increased culinary experience
• Providing economic opportunity through sharing new foods
• Providing more free time when maintained collaboratively
• Eliminating the need for pesticides, fungicides, and herbicides
• Combining with One Community’s self-sufficient and self-replicating teacher/demonstration community, village, and city model to increase global food security and address global hunger

 

WAYS TO CONTRIBUTE TO EVOLVING THIS SUSTAINABILITY COMPONENT WITH US

SUGGESTIONS | CONSULTING | MEMBERSHIP | OTHER OPTIONS

 

CLICK THESE IMAGES FOR COMPLETE & RELEVANT DETAILS

 

HIGHEST GOOD FOOD OPEN SOURCE PORTAL

Highest Good food is an approach to global transformation through open source and free-sharing how to grow food that is maximally nutritious, maximally bio-diverse, fresh, grown without pesticides, herbicide, or fungicide poisons, space and resource efficient, ecologically and individually healthy, and far beyond anything found in a typical grocery store. The following sections will evolve and expand indefinitely with open source content that covers all aspects needed for duplicating of One Community’s food infrastructure. This can be done in part or as a whole and includes the following areas and open source resources to facilitate the process:

		What we’re working on now
		Temporary Kitchen Setup
		Purchasing and Preparing Food Until Self-sufficient
		Large-scale Garden
		Food Forest
		Soil Amendment
		Botanical Garden
		Apiary/Bee Yard
		Hoop House Creation
		Ethical Raising of Goats
		Ethical Raising of Rabbits
		Ethical Raising of Chickens
		Aquaculture for Aquaponics
		Highest Good Wildlife Stewardship
		Aquapini and Walipini Food (Phase II)
		Building Plans for Aquapinis and Walipinis
		Detailed Materials List and Cost Analysis for All Components
		Do-it-yourself Multi-Media Resource and Information Hub
		How to Work with Your Local Government if Permitting is Required
		Detailed Tools and Equipment List, Best Place to Buy, and Cost Analysis for All Components
		Detailed Build-time Investment Needs for Each Component Based on Our Building Experience
		How to Install and Utilize Water Catchment for Each Structure and the Complete Food Infrastructure
		Making Your Build Easier Than Ours and How to Solve Any Problems We Encountered in Our Build
		Complete On-going Maintenance Details Per Our Experience With All Village Components
		Archive and Database of Others Building Similar Structures Including Their Experiences, Adaptations, etc.
		List of Everyone Who Helped Design and Build with Contacts for Future Modification Assistance
		All of the Above for the Tropical Atrium Sustainable Tropical Food Production and Social Gathering Space
		Large-scale and Permanent Open Source Commercial Eco-kitchen and Food-prep Facility
		All of the Above for All 7 Open Source Complete Sustainable-housing Village Designs
		All of the Above for Complete Renewable Energy Infrastructure

 

FOOD SUSTAINABILITY
IMPLEMENTATION DETAILS

Before One Community (or any off-grid teacher/demonstration community, village, or city) can begin construction of its primary structures, an initial team will move to the property to assess the land and begin food infrastructure preparation, finalize development plans, and create the “pre-infrastructure” that needs to exist to support the construction of the first phase of the One Community infrastructure. They will prepare the site for future teams to join them, and those teams will in turn prepare for the next teams arrival.

What follows is the specific plan for the food rollout aspects of this process. It starts with the initial survey team of three people and progresses through our first 400 people. As part of One Community’s open source goals, this rollout is designed and described in detail to help those interested in duplication. Additional details will be added to this tutorial as we complete them and to provide everything necessary for even easier replication. Click these links for details on each aspect of the rollout plan:

• Food Sustainability Implementation Details for 3-Person Survey Team
• Food Sustainability Implementation Details for up to 20 People
• Food Sustainability Implementation Details for up t0 50 People
• Food Sustainability Implementation Details for up to 100 People
• Food Sustainability Implementation Details for up to 400 People
• Food Sustainability Implementation Details for 400+ People

DUE DILIGENCE FOOD ROLLOUT

Before anyone goes to property action list –

1. Contact local CSA and arrange for shares upon our arrival, seasonally dependent (for 20 people)
2. Chef needs to have all food source locations identified and how best delivered on site, or do we go out to pick up
3. Order organic vegetable seeds (3-6 month prior pioneers arrival)

Before anyone goes to property action list – due diligence general

1. Order locally Stihl saw for pickup upon arrival, also chaps, helmet with safety screen & ear protection, Maintenance repair kit, dual compartment dolmar for fuel mix and bar oil, 30 pair of leather gloves, 6 pulaskis, 6 shovels, 2 sledgehammers, 6 McLeods, 2 sets of pole loppers (w/extension capability) 6 Fedco hand pruners with holsters and sharpening stones, 6 pruning saws with lockable blades that allow rope attachment, 100′ of heavy duty rope (all tools will have fiberglass handles)
2. Research availability of four-wheeler for local purchase and delivery to coincide with our arrival
3. Research off-road above ground fuel tanks
4. Research generators and be certain one comes with the property or do we need one upon our arrival
5. Research a mid-sized dump/utility truck
6. Research 4 x 4 pick-ups
7. Set up bank account
8. https://www.onecommunityglobal.org/village-fire-and-medical/

INITIAL SURVEY TEAM: FOOD FOR 3-PEOPLE

The primary focus for the initial three people is general property and structural assessment with videographer documentation of all activities. This includes a comprehensive walkthrough of the property, prioritizing action items for the next influx of personnel, and acquiring necessary tools, appliances, and food supplies for the initial three and the group to follow.

The action items (in order of implementation) for this stage of the food infrastructure rollout are as follows:

1. Secure Initial Food Supply

To secure the initial food supply, locate nearby organic food sources. Obtain enough food for the first 3 people living onsite for 1 month and be mindful of others dietary preferences and possible food allergies.

1. Secure Initial Food Supply

1. Secure Initial Food supply
   1. To secure the initial food supply, locate nearby organic food sources. Obtain enough food for the first 3 people living onsite for 1 month and be mindful of others dietary preferences and possible food allergies.
2. Test existing appliances and order others if necessary.
3. Contact local bakeries and restaurants to obtain free 5 gallon food safe buckets for storage.
4. Acquire a membership with Costco/ BJ’s/ SAM’s and/or establish a buying club drop point with Azure Standard. Azure Standard is our choice for bulk food purchases as they deliver nationally. There are other buying clubs and they may be more convenient for product sourcing should you not be positioned near the Azure Standard network.
5. Recon of initial property and structures.
   1. With essential food, supplies, and tools cached, we will undertake a comprehensive walkthrough of the property resulting in a summary report of our findings, concerns, and observations to present to the incoming group of Pioneers who will address the report’s issues as one of their first action items once they are settled into the property.
6. Conduct a water quality test, determine on site supply and GPM
   1. Water test your most used source(s) of water and send the samples (or request a test) to a state or local lab.
7. Receive, test, and inventory pre-ordered and existing equipment, tools, fuel, general supplies, agricultural machinery, etc.
8. Place orders for additional food items needed for 20 people.
   1. These orders will need to coincide with the 20 person group and their arrival. You can order from Azure Standard and/or local sources.
9. Soil Testing“see link below for a more comprehensive approach to soil assessment.
   1. This link from One Community provides many different ways to test soil and more information on the topic.
10. Wildfire Assessment
11. Initial Siting of Developments
12. Inventory Orchard
    1. Inventory all trees (dead and alive) by scientific names, extract dead trees, and bring in irrigation. Order trees, mulch, soil, and all other orchard related items.
13. Establish local contacts to obtain specific items.
    1. Arborists- Wood chips
    2. Ranchers- Manure, straw, and hay
    3. Local sources for live chickens, rabbits, and feed
14. Receive pre ordered food supply for 20 people from Azure Standard.
15. Pick up local pre ordered food supply for 20 people

 

3-PERSON FOOD IMPLEMENTATION DETAILS

Upon property acquisition, the initial team of 3 will acquire a two week’s food supply to cover their own needs. They will also receive, test, and inventory pre-ordered tools, fuel, and general and agricultural supplies in preparation for the arrival of 17 additional personnel. Purchasing kitchen items and appliances will also be completed by this team.

Here is the tools list and cost analysis for these items:

Food Infrastructure Comprehensive Cost Analysis Spreadsheet

SOIL AND WATER TESTING

Initial soil testing, water testing, and overall property analysis will be done as part of our due diligence before property purchase. It will be done again and more thoroughly by the initial survey party. Ribbon and jar tests will be completed throughout the property to determine the general soil content. Surface plants will also be assessed as the first steps of the open source botanical garden plan and to provide an indicator of soil type, deficiencies, soil water retention capabilities, and overall soil health. These simple field tests will further be confirmed through gathering soil samples and having a complete soil analysis done by the local Extension Service or nearest NRCS (Natural Resources Conservation Service) office. Water samples will also be taken for testing to confirm our flow rates meet the needs for the number of expected residents.

 

PROPERTY WALK AND STRUCTURE AND ORCHARD ASSESSMENT

As we walk the property we will provide a general assessment of all the existing structures, including interior/exterior structural integrity, roof condition, plumbing/electrical/heating issues, and note any major and immediately necessary upgrades/repairs, etc.

A comprehensive orchard assessment will also be conducted with all dead trees tagged for removal, existing trees identified, and damaged trees marked with an explanation provided for bringing them back to health. Fencing requirements, critter damage prevention, pruning needs, mulch, irrigation, weed/grass mowing, and a planting plan for the following spring, etc. will also be outlined by this initial team.

 

WILDLAND FIRE ASSESSMENT

A property perimeter and interior wildland fire assessment will also be conducted to produce recommendations for any necessary and immediate initial prevention considerations. Later, the complete fire prevention plan will be implemented to address tree removal, understory and ladder fuel reduction, creating an access map for emergency vehicle initial attack, and helispot identification sites for medi-vac and fire purposes.

Click Here for the Village Emergency Fire & Medical Plan Open Source Hub

 

INITIAL SITING OF DEVELOPMENTS

We will also designate preliminary locations for the Earthbag Village (Pod 1), Duplicable City Center, and agricultural areas (see Permaculture Design, Large-scale Gardening Plans, and Hoop Houses). This will include assessing and planning water locations, ponds, and swales, as well as a weather station site for conducting and recording daily weather conditions and creating an ongoing weather history that is as accurate as possible for our specific property.

Click Here for the Highest Good Housing Open Source Hub

 

ESTABLISH LOCAL CONTACTS

After the complete property survey is finished, gathering information throughout the surrounding community will follow and includes contacting the county again to arrange a new meeting with those we have been coordinating with prior to the property purchase. Additionally, we will survey the local restaurants to determine their wholesale food sources, check with local suppliers, ranchers, city and county departments, and arborists for availability of manure/straw/hay/wood chips. We will research availability of local chickens/rabbits and feed sources until we can grow most of what they consume.

 

FOOD FOR UP TO 20 PEOPLE

The core group of 20 will be composed of primarily Pioneers and a few Volunteers possessing specialized skills.  Together they will collectively review and confirm the assessments of the initial three and then begin building the Phase I food infrastructure as outlined below. Their backgrounds and experience will include the permaculture/food production, construction/architecture/engineering, and graphic design/video editing/open sourcing skills required to organize and complete all that is described below so we are ready to welcome and guide the next 30 people effectively.

Here are the action items (in order) for this stage of the food infrastructure rollout:

1. Secure Food Supply
   1. To secure the food supply, the Chef will order bulk foods for the 20 people living onsite for about 3 months and fresh foods weekly, keeping in mind others’ preferences and allergies.
2. Team Meeting
   1. With the new Pioneers arrival, the initial 3 will share their observations while answering and discussing any concerns. The items you will need are as follows:
      1. 10 boxes of refillable pens
      2. 10 boxes of mechanical pencils
      3. 2 cases of printer paper
      4. 1 box of “Pink Eraser” erasers
3. Location Designations
   1. The 20 person group will confirm the accuracy of the structural site designations and suggest alternative sites if required.
4. Transition Kitchen Set-up
   1. Necessary equipment is here, and the cost analysis here. Set-up a composting area and secure organic restaurant food scraps to be composted and for feeding worms.
5. Worms
   1. Secure a local source of red wiggler worms to enhance the composting process and contribute a natural fertilizer.
6. Purchase and/ or acquire soil/compost, mulch, wood chips, manure, straw, hay, and gather leaves in fall
7. Build Hoop Houses
8. Build chicken coops, build chicken plucker, and order organic chicken feed
9. Amend soil
10. Establish food gardens
11. Set up apiary
12. Acquire chickens
13. Orchard resurrection
14. Hugelkultur construction
15. Construct water lab
16. Identify stock pond and other perennial water sources
    1. If you plan on eating fish or aquatic plants, you will want to look at the link provided and follow the step. Otherwise, this step is not recommended.

UP TO 20 PERSON FOOD IMPLEMENTATION DETAILS

After the work of the initial three is complete, the next 20 people will arrive on the property to begin comprehensive implementation of all the Phase I food details. Here is the tools list and cost analysis for the additional items that will be needed for this phase of development:

COMING….

This group of 20 people will inventory the equipment list in the “Off-grid Energy Implementation Details for the Up to 20 People” section of the Highest Good Energy page.

With essential food, supplies, and tools cached, we will undertake a comprehensive walkthrough of the property resulting in a summary report of our findings, concerns, and observations to present to the incoming group of Pioneers who will begin addressing the report’s issues once they are settled into the property.

 

TEAM MEETING

The purpose of the team meeting is for the initial three to share their findings with the incoming additional team of 10-20, then conduct a walking tour to familiarize everyone with the property and collaboratively organize which aspects of the project the various team members will engage. Teams will be groups of two to five and focused on establishing the groundwork for implementing the food and agricultural foundation of One Community.

Below are the combination of skills/individuals we think would be ideal for this team. Some of these positions may be filled by overlapping qualifications of a single individual (for example: civil engineer/surveyor):

• Chef
• Hydrologist
• Irrigation Specialist
• Permaculturist(s)
• Soils Scientist
• Videographer

CLICK HERE IF YOU’D LIKE TO APPLY TO FILL ONE OF THESE POSITIONS

 

FOOD SUPPLY AND TRANSITION KITCHEN SET-UP

Our chef will handle day-to-day food responsibilities with other Pioneers assisting as needed. Before the team of 20 people arrive, the chef will pre-order their food supply and the initial three will obtain locally grown organic vegetables, purchase a Costco membership, and enroll with a food buying club for bulk purchases. Once on site with the 20 person team, the chef will begin organizing the existing kitchen facility and later the transition kitchen (see Transition Kitchen Set-Up), food preparation and dining areas, sleeping quarters, and portable facilities for bathrooms and showers for about 25 residents. Some sleeping accommodations are available on the planned property. With this set-up completed and functional, the next incoming team will have their immediate needs met and ready to implement the next phase of the general infrastructure needs as they relate to the food plan.

See these links:

• https://www.onecommunityglobal.org/transition-kitchen/

LOCATION DESIGNATIONS

During our walk through of the property we will collectively confirm the locations of our transition kitchen, hoop houses, large-scale garden & hugelkultur beds, apiary, food forest, chicken coops, goat barn, rabbit hutches, and fenced areas. These sites are based upon directional orientation, geographical features, prevailing wind directions, solar exposure, water accessibility, and access convenience and efficiency as related to one another – for example, locating the growing areas reasonably close to the food preparation site.

 

COMPOST SET-UP & COMPOSTING

Our primary compost area will be adjacent to the garden area and permanent kitchen location for easy access of transporting garden and kitchen waste to the compost piles. Initially we will seek organic matter off property, such as restaurant food scraps, manure, hay, grass clippings, leaves, and wood chips. After the first year or two, we expect to be able to supply almost all of the organic matter from our own property.

Composting is an ongoing process and will occur year-round. During the winter season we will daily add to our traditional compost piles but during other seasons we will use trench composting and vermiculture methods as introduced in the next section and discussed in detail on the soil amendment page. The soil, dead shredded leaves, organic hay, wood chips, and smaller pruning clippings will be stored near our piles to serve as carbon contributors as well as nitrogen sources of kitchen & garden scraps, grass clippings, chemical-free aged manure, weeds (prior to seeding), and coffee grounds to constantly add to the layered piles. See this link for tips on stockpiling materials for batch composting: Article: “How to Stockpile Compost Material“

We also will create this with an area large enough to operate a small tractor or bobcat to minimize manual labor when turning piles. The site can be in a shady or sunny area, full sun is not necessary as composting creates its own heat during the process of microbial breakdown. It must have good drainage though and should be covered with a tarp or under a roof to prevent saturation by rainwater. The carbon-contributor wood chips, twigs, large branches and trunks don’t need to be covered.

 

WORMS

Worms serve a dynamic role in creating and maintaining a healthy soil, so we’ll begin our initial worm farms during this initial phase of our food rollout. Under the right conditions worms appear on their own and mother nature puts them to work processing food scraps, leaves, insects, and other organic matter. To further build our worm population, we will practice vermiculture (worm) composting the majority of the year. This method includes vermiculture farms and trench composting and is a much simpler and far less labor intensive process than regular composting. Details of these processes and the rest of our worm cultivation strategy can be found in the worms section of our large-scale soil amendment page. Vermiculture worm bins will be sited for inclusion by our composting area(s), inside our hoop houses, and anywhere else they can be useful and effectively managed.

 

SOIL AMENDMENT

We are planning for soil that requires amendment to adequately grow for our needs and we’ll start that process in this early phase of development. For areas like ours that we expect to be too sandy, amending the soil (adding organic material to the existing soil) will increase the nutrient value and water retention. This will make the soil more healthy and help minimize plant diseases.
A good quality compost is an excellent way to begin the process. Initially we will open the soil using a garden spade to lift it and add 4-6″ of quality compost while keeping the topsoil in place. Then we’ll add over this several inches of well-aged manure that we’ll slightly rake in, leaving the majority of the manure exposed as the surface layer of compost. Complete details of this process are described in the soil amendment section of the large-scale soil amendment page.
The first year on the property we will not plant crops immediately but begin amending the soil to improve soil fertility with the following:

• Compost
• Leaves
• Manure (organic only, if available)
• Cover crops
  • Red/Crimson clover(these nitrogen-fixing legumes have a strong affinity for mycorrhizal fungi—also spreading a wood chip mulch will feed the existing fungi in the soil)
  • Fava beans (nitrogen-fixer)
  • Lupine (nitrogen-fixer and pollinator)

The second year we will begin planting comfrey (a nitrogen accumulator). Its extensive root system will draw nutrients from deep within the soil, collected in the leaves and later added as a surface mulch, releasing the nitrogen and other nutrients back into the soil for next year’s planting. We will utilize comfrey in a tea form to selectively water specific plants. Chives will be planted as nitrogen accumulators and to attract pollinators also.

 

HOOP HOUSE CONSTRUCTION

Hoop houses are a vital part of our food infrastructure and will prolong both ends of our growing season. Initially we will purchase topsoil/compost and immediately begin composting and building soil for our hoop houses and outdoor gardens. Vermi-composting, traditional composting, and trench composting will contribute to this process. Cole crops are started early in the hoop houses and transplanted out in the early spring. Late summer/early fall allows a second cole crop in the hoop houses, maintaining them through harvest into early winter. For further information and details on how we will construct these hoop houses, visit the hoop houses open source hub.

 

GARDEN ESTABLISHMENT AND NO-TILL

The garden area will be located in an open sunny area near a water source. See installation of drip irrigation system here (thorough explanation):

Embed: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SbYRdvEUJ70

Companion planting- https://www.onecommunityglobal.org/large-scale-gardening/

Along with traditional cultivation we will have no-till beds; these will not be implemented immediately because our initial focus is building soil for quick food production. Due to our elevation and soil type we will exercise different methods to determine the best approach for obtaining higher production yields. For certain, we will yearly amend with compost/aged manure, leaves, food scraps, and hay resulting in a soil with high water retention, abundant nutrients, and good soil structure.

If we are at a high elevation we will have a relatively short growing season and will start in the greenhouse with many of our vegetables and transplant them to the outdoor garden. Once the hoop houses are up we can grow the majority of our vegetables within them as long as we create pass through ventilation by raising the coverings of the sides to prevent overheating. But any of the below listed can be grown in the outside garden area associated with the coolness of higher elevations. Brassicaceae (commonly known as the Mustard family) contain 338 genera and more than 3,700 species of flowering plants distributed throughout the world. The following is a list of some of the major genera and species in Brassicaceae, arranged alphabetically by common name. It is highly possible to attain two separate crops in a single growing season. We can start some of these from seed in pots early and transplant into the garden soil. The second planting we would start in pots outside in partially shaded areas later in the summer and then bring the pots indoors without transplanting, but placed in the greenhouse in fall they will produce well into the cold weather season. Others will be directly seeded into the ground. Some of the flowering annuals would serve as bee attractants, others used in dried flower arrangements, as ornamentals, added to salads for their peppery, nutty taste and nutritional value, and consumed (both the green tops and roots)for their nutritional value. Some are annuals, biennials, and others perennials.

The outdoor garden will also include a separate section for tree production. Some will be transplanted to areas of the property and others will remain, serving as grafting stock or for chip budding. We will also do a small amount of experimental growing and see how far we can stretch the plants hardiness zones by creating intentional micro-climates with the natural materials of the landscape. As well, we can incorporate some of these into rock gardens and wall plantings. Some are considered invasive species and we will tend to steer away from them unless they are planted in a small indoor area. We have numerous options:

• Arugula (Eruca sativa)
• Basket-of-gold (Aurinia saxatilis)
• Bittercress (genus Cardamine)
• Cabbage and relatives (genus Brassica)
  • Bok choy (Brassica rapa, variety chinensis)
  • Brown mustard (Brassica juncea)
  • Broccoli (Brassica oleracea, variety italica)
  • Brussels sprouts (Brassica oleracea, variety gemmifera)
  • Cabbage (Brassica oleracea, variety capitata)
  • Cauliflower (Brassica oleracea, variety botrytis)
  • Collard (Brassica oleracea, variety acephala)
  • Kale (Brassica oleracea, variety acephala)
  • Kohlrabi (Brassica oleracea, variety gongylodes)
  • Napa cabbage (Brassica rapa, variety pekinensis)
  • Rape (Brassica napus, variety napus)
  • Rutabaga (Brassica napus, variety napobrassica)
  • Turnip (Brassica rapa, variety rapa)
• Candytuft (Genus Iberis)
• Charlock (Sinapis arvensis)
• Dame’s rocket (Hesperis matronalis)
• Honesty (Genus Lunaria)
• Horseradish (Armoracia rusticana)
• Kerguelen cabbage (Pringlea antiscorbutica)
• Pennycress (Genus Thlaspi)
• Peppergrass (Genus Lepidium)
• Radish (Raphanus sativus)
• Rock cress (Genus Arabis)
• Rocket (Genus Sisymbrium)
• Rose of Jericho (Anastatica hierochuntica)
• Sea kale (Crambe maritima)
• Sea rocket (Genus Cakile)
• Shepherd’s purse (Capsella bursa-pastoris)
• Stock (Genus Matthiola)
• Stonecress (Genus Aethionema)
• Sweet alyssum (Lobularia maritima)
• Thale cress (Arabidopsis thaliana)
• Wallflower (Genus Erysimum)
• Watercress (Nasturtium officinale)
• White mustard (Sinapis alba)
• Whitlow grass (Genus Draba)
• Wild radish (Raphanus raphanistrum)
• Winter cress (Genus Barbarea)
• Woad (Isatis tinctoria)
• Yellow cress (Genus Rorippa)

Beyond this, most plants that were started in the greenhouse will then be transplanted to the outdoor gardens

We can grow many of the above in the herb garden as well as many of these common household kitchen & medicinal herbs:

• Parsley (Petroselinum rispum)
• Mint (Mentha)
• Dill (Anethum graveolens)
• Basil (Ocimum basilicum)
• Sage (Salvia officinalis)
• Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis)
• Thyme (Thymus vulgaris)
• Cilantro (Coriandrum sativum)
• Fennel (Foeniculum vulgare)
• Chamomile (Matricaria chamomilla)
• Jasmine (Jasminum)
• Lavender (Lavandula)
• Catnip (Nepeta cataria)
• Chives (Allium schoenoprasum)
• St. John’s wort (Hypericum perforatum)
• Garlic (Allium sativum)
• Onion (Allium cepa)
• Ginger (Zingiber officinale)
• Ginseng (Panax)
• Peppermint (Mentha Ô piperita)
• Stevia (Stevia rebaudiana)
• Cloves (Syzygium aromaticum)
• Aloe vera (Aloe vera)
• Lemongrass (Cymbopogon)
• Oregano (Origanum vulgare)

We will have more than enough herb selections for our collective taste buds and other purposes. These herbs can be grown in excess and then dried in the fall and utilized throughout the winter. They will serve as flavor enhancements for salads and veggie and meat dishes. They can be dried without a power source, simply by hanging in a southern exposure and then stored in jars in a root cellar or other such areas. Another focus is the medicinal herbs, we will devote some of our herb beds solely for this purpose. Overall, we will have many herbs we can grow and along the way we will learn what grows best in our area from trial and error, though by creating microclimates indoors and outdoors we will enhance the diversification of what is possible to grow.

Here is a list of hardy herbs for zone 5 gardens:

1. Agrimony (Agrimonia)
2. Angelica (Angelica)
3. Anise hyssop (Agastache foeniculum)
4. Catnip (Nepeta cataria)
5. Caraway (Carum carvi)
6. Chives (Allium schoenoprasum)
7. Clary sage (Salvia sclarea)
8. Comfrey (Symphytum)
9. Costmary (Tanacetum balsamita)
10. Echinacea (Echinacea)
11. Chamomile (Matricaria chamomilla)
12. Lavender (Lavandula)
13. Feverfew (Tanacetum parthenium)
14. Sorrel (Rumex acetosa)
15. French tarragon (Artemisia dracunculus)
16. Garlic chives (Allium tuberosum)
17. Horseradish (Armoracia rusticana)
18. Lemon balm (Melissa officinalis)
19. Lovage (Levisticum officinale)
20. Marjoram (Origanum majorana)
21. Mint hybrids (Mentha) (chocolate mint, apple mint, orange mint, etc.)
22. Parsley (Petroselinum crispum)
23. Peppermint (Mentha Ô piperita)
24. Rue (Ruta graveolens)
25. Salad burnet (Sanguisorba minor)
26. Spearmint (Mentha spicata)
27. Sweet Cicely Oregano (Myrrhis odorata)
28. Thyme (Thymus vulgaris)
29. Winter Savory (Satureja montana)

These herbs reseed themselves from year to year:

• Borage (Borago officinalis)
• Calendula (Calendula officinalis)
• Chervil (Anthriscus cerefolium)
• Cilantro/Coriander (Coriandrum sativum)
• Dill (Anethum graveolens)

Single-fence areas outer plantings
Key- c&d- Chop and drop

• • Sea buckthorn (Hippophae rhamnoides) barbs & nf
  • Silver buffaloberry (Shepherdia argentea) nf, c&d
  • Gooseberry (Ribes uva-crispa) fruit and barbs
  • Russian olive (Elaeagnus angustifolia) -nf
  • Rose (Rosa moyesii) https://www.gardenersworld.com/plants/roses-for-hips/ (for Rose hips-fruit and barbs)
  • Ninebark (Physocarpus opulifolius) nf & pollinator
  • Caragana (Siberian pea shrub) (Caragana arborescens) nf, c&d, barbs
  • Silverberry, wolf-willow, wild olive (Elaeagnus commutata) -nf,c&d
  • Bayberry (Myrica gale) -nf (requires microclimate in kandyland)
  • Serviceberry (Amelanchier alnifolia) fruit
  • Elderberry (Sambucus cerulea) habitat restoration, pollinator
  • Comfrey (Symphytum) mulching, nutrients, soil aeration, c&d
  • Red clover (Trifolium pratense) nf, pollinator, fodder, green manure, c&d
  • Alfalfa (Medicago sativa) -fodder, green manure, nf, c&d
  • Lupine (Lupinus polyphyllus) nf, c&d

**
Initial zone-4 swale area plantings
Four horizontal planting strips will be planted that follow the land contours at 4 separate elevations on the swale. The A strip is the upper slope of the swale, the B strip is the bottom of the swale, the C strip is the berm uphill side and the D strip is the berm downhill side.

1. Alfalfa, borage, buckwheat, herbs, red & white clover, poppies, rye, strawberry
2. Comfrey, equisetum, marsh marigold, paw paw, french sorrel
3. Sea Buckthorn, herbs, hyssop, lupine, monarda, vetch
4. Mulberry, oak, paw paw, pear, plum, clover, daikon, fava, lambsquarter, marigolds

• Double-fence areas in-between plantings and outer plantings

Key- c&d- Chop and drop

• • Black Locust-nf (Robinia pseudoacacia)
  • Northern Red oak (Quercus rubra) lumber
  • Chinese chestnut (Castanea mollissima) wildlife and human nut consumption
  • Caragana (Siberian pea shrub)-nf, c&d (Caragana arborescens)
  • American silverberry, wolf-willow, wild olive-nf, c&d (Elaeagnus commutata)
  • Silver maple-lumber (Acer saccharinum)
  • Comfrey-mulching, nutrients, soil aeration, c&d (Symphytum)
  • Red clover-nf, pollinator, fodder, green manure, c&d (Trifolium pratense)
  • Alfalfa-fodder, green manure, nf, c&d (Medicago sativa)
  • Lupine-nf, c&d (Lupinus polyphyllus)

Soil temperature affects seed germination and we will plant cole crops at 45F; tomatoes, marigolds (pest deterrent), and most other warm season crops at 60F or better, waiting until soil temperatures reach 68-70F for peppers and eggplant. Simple ways to increase soil temperature at the plant base is to plant within tire rings or utilizing “walls-o-water”. There are numerous ways to construct garden beds and here are some examples:

Because we have a substantial amount of flat, blocky rock we will lay this up about 12″ high so the true width of the bed from inside edge to inside edge is 3′ with hay extending under the rock and about 6″ beyond the outer edges of the rock perimeter. With ease, this allows one to reach across the midpoint of the bed from both sides, convenient for adults and children when planting, harvesting, and maintaining the beds. Hay helps suppress weeds, adds nutrients, and eventually incorporates into the soil. The path width between beds is 30″ and will be heavily mulched with a thick layer (8″-10″) of wood chips.

Before laying the hay we will use a garden fork to loosen the soil and then water thoroughly. With the amount of sand we have it may not be necessary to utilize the fork, but if so, simple push the fork into the soil with your foot so it penetrates the full depth of the tines and wiggle it back and forth a couple times, extract the fork and repeat the process throughout the bed. Our beds will run east/west to take maximum advantage of the sun.

If you have healthy soils and a reasonable growing season duration, unlike our sandy soils and short growing season, soil prep may be as simple as adding a rich compost manure mix with a heavy mulch.

Upon completion of the growing beds with a peripheral rock delineation, the first year consists of a more extensive layer of materials due to the lack of nutrients in the soil and utilizing organic ingredients will result in healthier crops if the components are not treated with chemicals. There are many alternatives to jump start the soil building in the first year and if you have poor quality soil this is one method:

1. Grass clippings, 2-4″ covering layered cardboard***(see below) and then water
2. Add a bucket or two of food scraps positioned in the inner third of the bed (if they are on the perimeter they are more likely to attract rodents)
3. Worms will naturally be drawn to your garden, but adding some now is a way to expedite breaking down the food scraps, water
4. Topsoil addition (2″) and water
5. Loose hay covering (3″) and water
6. Thin shredded paper layer (1″) and water
7. Thin layer of green grass (1″) and water
8. Soil/compost mix (3″) and water
9. Dry grass clippings (2″) and water
10. Dry leaves (2-3″) and water
11. Compost/manure mix (3″) and water
12. Hay mulch 8″
13. Straw mulch (2-3)

*** The Great Cardboard/Paper Controversy”Within the permaculture and gardening communities there exists a running debate on whether or not to utilize these items due to the chemical additives in their creation. The gardening purists refrain from any cardboard or paper products with additives of any kind believing that under no circumstances should we introduce chemicals into the process as there are enough introduced both intentionally and unintentionally throughout our environment, while proponents argue that the additives are locked up and not available causing no harm and the layering of cardboard and paper products greatly helps in the initial phase of weed blocking. The initial application of paper products is single use only and allows one to get ahead and stay on top of weed control. We bring this point to the forefront for your awareness allowing you to make the choice of cardboard and/or paper products. Further research will help your determination. Here is an ongoing discussion of the matter http://permies.com/t/2157/concerns-cardboard-newspaper-mulch.

In some ways, the above is an ideal way to begin transforming a poor soil into a good quality growing media. Depending on one’s stance on non-organic substances such as the chemicals and glues in cardboard and paper and the common use of chemicals applied to grain crops resulting in tainted straw, we will alter the above method, even though some permaculturists state that a single use of cardboard and shredded paper will not greatly affect your end result in a negative way. This may be true and our preference is to stay away from chemical use in our growing beds. Therefore, remembering there is no single correct method, this is our choice for setting the process in motion with a poor quality sandy soil that occupies our property at an elevation of 6500′.

In the summer/fall season before planting:

1. Secure organic hay bales in spring from previous years crop or in late summer and store in the sun under black plastic for at least 2-3 weeks (to burn up excessive weed seeds within)
2. Secure dump loads of manure in late summer and store in the sun under black plastic for following spring utilization
3. Fork the ground if necessary and water well
4. Remove hay from plastic (after minimum of 2-3 weeks storage) and apply 12-16″ mulch (this will act solely as a winter soil insulator so we can plant earlier in the spring)

Resume in the spring with the following steps:

1. Pull back hay mulch and cover ground with 4″ topsoil, then water topsoil
2. Add kitchen scraps, as much as reasonably possible, and scatter them throughout the bed except for an 8″ perimeter around all sides of the bed
3. Liberally add coffee grounds
4. For added worm support scatter handfuls of sand over the bed (Digestive system of a worm and how it works, see this link) http://scienceprojectideasforkids.com/2010/earthworm-digestive-system/
5. Add a 2″ layer of dried grass, leaves, or other shredded material, then water
6. Cover with 4″ aged manure/compost, then water
7. Add 8-10″ organic hay mulch (obtained the prior summer to what we already have that is now diminished to a couple inches)
8. Cover walkways with wood chips(preferable) or organic straw”whatever is available
9. To commence planting, pull back hay mulch just enough to create a small furrow, set seeds, and lightly cover seeds with soil
10. Push hay back and expose a thin soil line to allow seed germination; if planting seedlings, close soil gap with mulch up to the base of the seedling
11. Add 2-3″ organic straw over hay, if obtainable, otherwise eliminate this step (the straw which remains drier than the moist hay will lessen seed germination from windblown weed seeds)
12. Weed well in the mulch gap in the beginning, if necessary, then cover exposed soil from furrow with existing hay/straw mulch by closing mulch gap up to base of seedlings after they have sprouted and reached several inches in height
13. Thereafter pull weeds or cover weeds with hay throughout the growing season

The above is not an exact formula, you can vary the amendments to suit the existing materials you have on site. Remember, we are beginning with poor soil and want to build soil and increase nutrient value as quickly as possible.

Straw or hay, what makes a better mulch and why? The following link elaborates on the pros and cons: http://thegrownetwork.com/straw-vs-hay-which-makes-a-better-mulch/

Pros of straw:

• Good insulator
• Bedding for animals
• Good for walkways (like wood chips)

Cons of straw:

• Attracts rodents (more than hay)
• Adds few nutrients
• Takes longer to decompose
• Not as good a weed blocker as hay (use newspaper under it)

Pros of hay:

• Retains moisture (good for hay bale gardening as well)
• Nutrient rich (balanced NPK and trace minerals)
• Good weed block
• Generally too dense for rodents

Cons of hay:

• Attracts slugs and snails in wetter climates
• Decomposes quickly
• Weeds seeds blown in sprout more readily if hay is damp
• Can tie up nitrogen (As hay decomposes it is broken down by various bacteria and other organisms that all use nitrogen, the same as straw. These organisms utilize this new food source (your hay compost) and they multiply rapidly, which depletes the soil of nitrogen. As they run out of food the organisms die and the nitrogen is once again available for the plants to use. Planting directly into a hay mulch without any supplemental nitrogen source available probably isn’t the best idea.)

In a perfect world the solution is to use both hay and straw. A thick layer of hay mulch on the bottom where it will decompose and act as a spongy reservoir for moisture, topped off with a few inches of straw acting as a dry layer preventing blown in weeds from sprouting and providing an aesthetically pleasing and functional walkway (if you have a choice of only one type of mulch use hay simply for the fertility factor).

But as all practical gardeners know, you use what you have or can easily obtain. Why pay money for straw if a local farmer will give you hay inexpensively or free in July for nothing? If you can receive it free but you don’t need it all at once then simply put the extra bales out by your garden, throw a tarp over them, and save them for next year. If the hay gets wet and starts to compost itself, it really doesn’t matter. Eventually it all goes in the soil and the pile of bales can act as a windbreak while it waits to be used.

Most grains are sprayed with chemicals so organic straw is difficult to source, that said, organic hay may be difficult to locate, but easier than straw, depending on your location. In the end you will use what is available and economically feasible.

What’s the difference between hay and straw? Hay is simply grass, commonly Timothy or Orchard Grass (http://standleeforage.com/nutrition/nutritional-papers/big-two-forage-grasses-timothy-and-orchard)
(http://www.gardeningknowhow.com/edible/vegetables/cover-crops/orchardgrass-information.htm) grown to proper height, cut at the peak of nutrition (ideally before it goes to seed), dried, bundled, and stored safely. The best hay is grown for sale to livestock owners because they value its nutritional content and are willing to pay the premium price it commands. For various reasons, primarily weather related, it is difficult to cut hay without at least some of the grass going to seed. Prep hay or straw bales by sealing moist bales in plastic and leaving them in direct sun for at least two to three weeks. This substantially kills many of the weed seeds.

Straw is the bare stalk remaining after a nutritious seed head, such as barley or wheat has been harvested. The stalks are then dried, bundled and stored safely. The best straw is sold as high quality animal bedding (often times for race horses). Farmers make every effort to harvest the grain from straw, leaving straw bales relatively seed free especially when compared to hay.

Often gardeners are reluctant to mulch with hay for fear of introducing additional weed seeds. Here are some solutions addressing that issue:
When using hay, avoid working the soil. When the soil is cultivated seeds are brought to the surface, resulting in germination. If the hay contains weed seeds, as long as we keep piling on more hay as it decomposes, the seeds will be buried and likely won’t germinate. Covering the weeds with hay will add nutrients to the soil and minimize the laborious task of weeding.

• If weeds are germinating and growing, remove them or cover with more hay; they will supplement the soil nutritional value.
• If you are concerned about weed seeds, leave the hay outside the garden for a few months to start the decomposition process before adding it to the garden.

Knowledgeable gardeners should make informed decisions on which is best for their needs. If your goal is simply to cover the soil, as for paths, then straw is fine. If your goal is to enrich your soil, then the nutritious hay is the better choice.

Using good quality of either is important, so learn how to evaluate bales. Hay or straw may be excellent, good, or poor quality. Lesser qualities will have more seeds and weeds. If poorly made, certified organic straw or hay may be worse than conventional bales in terms of seeds and weeds. Keep in mind the lesser quality products are usually what are offered because farmers can’t sell it at a higher price to livestock owners, especially certified organic.

Following are information, thoughts, and practices of Ruth Stout, an avid mulcher who practiced very simple gardening methods based on a no-till philosophy with heavy mulching replacing both cultivation and weeding, while improving the soil quality, conserving moisture, maintaining a more even soil temperature, and creating an aesthetically pleasing appearance.

The secret to Ruth Stout’s “No Dig/No Work” method is keeping a thick mulch of any vegetable matter that rots on your vegetable and flower gardens. “Eight inches of rotting hay is the best thing you could do to a garden”, she maintained. Spoiled low quality (not suitable for feed) hay is cheaper to buy and both fertilizes the soil and keeps the ground moist. Hay keeps the ground moist and diminishes greatly the need to water. She also didn’t limit her mulching material to hay alone, but also tossed grass clippings, straw, leaves, pine needles, sawdust, weeds, and kitchen scraps directly onto her garden. She didn’t bother with a separate compost pile, as her garden was her compost pile. Stout stated you shouldn’t bother weeding, when weeds begin to grow through the hay, just add another armful of hay on the weeds.

This non-invasive method worked so well for Stout that she grew all of the vegetables needed by herself and her husband for 14 consecutive years. To “plant” potatoes, she simply threw sprouted potatoes on the ground, covered them with hay, and let them fend for themselves. They produced lots of healthy potatoes ” the no dig/no work way. She planted seeds the same easy way.

There is some work involved, though, buying hay and placement on the garden (she recommended starting with a healthy eight inches of hay mulch, distributed evenly around the flower and vegetable gardens). After that, the only work was tossing down more hay when the height of the hay decreased or whenever weeds appeared. There is a considerable time and labor savings using this no-dig method. Another benefit is not introducing dormant weed seeds that are brought to the surface during manual or mechanical cultivation.

Her published books include How To Have A Green Thumb Without An Aching Back ” A New Method Of Mulch Gardening, The Ruth Stout No-Work Garden Book, and Gardening Without Work: For the Aging, the Busy, and the Indolent.

Ruth Stout recommended starting a garden in late summer or fall. Early in the springtime, the soil is still cold, and the mulch would tend to keep the soil from warming up. If the ground is covered in the autumn with 8″ (20cm) of hay, it will be ready for seedlings in the springtime. This may seem excessive, but with the influences of rain and decomposition, soon enough it will reduce to 2-3 inches (5-7 cm) thick.

For beginning a new garden with the Ruth Stout System, the hay is added directly on an existing lawn. Do not remove the underlying grass and plants: they’ll decompose under the hay and add to the soil fertility.

For planting seeds, ensure that they’re in direct contact with the soil. In terms of the distance between seeds, use the distances recommended in traditional gardening methods. Nevertheless, Ruth Stout said plants can be more closely spaced after a few years of using her method. For transplanting seedlings, use a trowel or a small shovel.

For the cooler seasons, Stout recommends choosing cold-resistant plants like kale, that are harvested even when there is snow; or parsnips, that are left in the ground all winter and harvested in the spring. To help them get through the winter, cover them with a layer of hay.

Stout also suggests growing squash (for example, buttercup and blue hubbard), since they preserve well indoors during the winter months.

Her approach to gardening starts with the foundational principle of applying mulch, mulch, and more mulch, and then simply moving it back a tiny bit each year to make room for a row of seeds rather than comprehensive cultivation (and weeding).

She was practical in many ways: suggesting you take cues from the pace of plants to know what goes where (for example, that peppers can be planted in the spinach bed, since the latter will be done before the former get big enough to interfere). If there was no room in the garden proper for space-hogging potatoes, no matter; she grew them on top of the ground somewhere sunny (including as an impromptu border to her big iris bed some years) and just covered the tubers with clean hay or straw, no digging involved.

Ruth Stout Sources:
http://www.emmitsburg.net/gardens/articles/frederick/2007/stout.htm
http://www.goveganic.net/article182.html

A third party utilizing ruth stout mulching method:
Charles Dowding No-till:
This Charles Dowding video is about no-till/dig gardening. At the 3 minute mark he discusses the no-dig method and compares it to a dug bed, revealing the yields in the no-dig are slightly better and require less work. At the 7 minute mark he also talks of using aged manure(at least one year old) and placing it directly on the soil or grass and then covering it with cardboard or carpet to suppress weed growth. This method can be used in greenhouses and polytunnels also (discussed at the 10 minute mark). Composted manure works well in wet climates while straw is preferred in drier climates. Straw in wetter climates tends to draw slugs.

Morag Gamble No-till:
A very informative video about no-till/dig gardening. She has a slightly different approach and this video is best viewed start to finish. It describes the 4 steps in setting up a no/till garden whether you are starting new or utilizing an existing garden:

Open the soil. Use a garden fork to open the soil allowing air and moisture penetration. Once it is open, water thoroughly. If the soil is not moist, water, and then open the soil with a garden fork. Any existing vegetation can be left in place as it will decompose and add nutrients to the soil. Water soil thoroughly again.
Feed the soil. Use whatever you have”coffee grounds, vegetative matter, food scraps, compost, leaves, aged manure, etc.”and distribute it on the ground surface. Add water.
Lay weed barrier. Soak newspaper about 10 sheets thick, overlapping edges about 4″. If you have sloping ground lay the paper so the water drains under the next layer of paper (the reverse of laying roofing materials). Add water if necessary.
Apply mulch. Add 8″ of hay mulch or wood chips and water well. Our preference in our climate is hay, but with none available we will use wood chips and allow it to break down before planting.

When planting, pull back the hay and use a small hand spade to penetrate the newspaper and set the depth for transplants. One can also plant seed in rows the same as you would normally plant in a garden after going through the newspaper. The benefits in this planting method are water conservation, insulation factor of hay during summer and winter seasons, dramatic reduction in weed growth, (most gardeners lay a weed barrier directly on the ground surface and this will not affect weed seed in the compost) as well, with the compost directly on the ground it allows quicker nutrient availability from the compost into the soil.

ORCHARD RESURRECTION / PLANTING

After minimal or no care over a period of years, the existing orchard will require immediate resurrection efforts. First we will tag the obvious dead trees for removal and those showing substantial damage from wildlife; simultaneously we will mend fencing and rebuild where necessary. The severely damaged trees will be removed and those with minimal damage will remain, tended to, and brought back to health. The best way to initiate this is pruning, as it will encourage new growth and increase fruit and nut production. All by-products of tree extraction and pruning will go into hugelkultur beds adjacent to the orchard. Over time it will allow us to build good, rich, water retentive soil. For tree nourishment we will provide companion planting of nitrogen fixers and comfrey under the trees, as well, they can serve as a mulch. For irrigation, when needed, we will include a drip system beneath a wood chip mulch. See installation of drip irrigation system here, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SbYRdvEUJ70, for a thorough explanation. Here is a complete parts list
that discusses backflow preventers, pressure regulators, filters, easy-to-clean emitters, system flushing, advantages of a drip system, and various recommendations of what to do and what not to do. Some argue for the use of only HDPE and LDPE piping for food. However, your inlet into your house is likely from a municipal system constructed with PVC. We recommend viewing this video from beginning to end.

1. 9 seconds into video: Backflow preventer (one per hose bib)
   https://www.amazon.com/ORGL73191-Backflow-Preventer-Vacuum-Breaker/dp/B017080MAW/ref=sr_1_20_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1547534745&sr=8-20&keywords=backflow+preventer+3%2F4+inch
2. 54 seconds: Splitter (with shut off valves per each branch, brass fittings supposedly contain lead, not so with plastic options) (one per hose bib)
   http://amzn.to/1RxlaNd
3. 1 minute 50 seconds: Programmable Timer: one per hose bib
   http://amzn.to/1WeDtwK
4. 2 minutes 35 seconds: Pressure Regulator (30psi approximately—if your system puts out very high pressure you might want to place the pressure regulator before the timer to lessen the strain on the timer) one per hose bib
   http://amzn.to/1o50m8a
5. 3 minutes 40 seconds: ¾â€ hose thread washable Filter (for sediment, not contaminants) one per zone
   http://amzn.to/1pHktek
6. ¾â€ PVC pipe: one 20′ section(for parts)—number of sections for running from hose bib to garden beds unknown
7. 4 minutes 30 seconds: ¾â€PVC Connector (one per zone)
8. 5 minutes 45 seconds: ¾â€ PVC pipe short section (to get underground)
9. 5 minutes 50 seconds: ¾â€ PVC elbow (with ¾â€ PVC pipe to planting bed) unknown quantity—10
10. 6 minutes 25 seconds: Drip line connection to PVC pipe—¾â€ pipe comes up from ground to ¾â€ tee or ¾â€ elbow, depending on layout……quantity depends on layout—10 of each
11. 6 minutes 50 seconds: ¾â€ to ½â€ reducer from tee or elbow, depending on layout…..quantity depends on layout—-20
12. 7 minutes 01 second: ½â€ PVC to ½â€drip tube connector…..depends on number of zones—10
13. 7 minutes 33 seconds: ½â€ black tubing to ½â€ black elbow—10
14. ½â€ black poly tubing…..roll quantity unknown—1000′
15. Drip line punch tool(2): creates a hole for insertion of emitters
    http://amzn.to/1Rxl0Wc
16. 10 minutes 07 seconds: Emitters (2 gallons per hour [GPH]) these particular emitters can be disassembled and easily cleaned, use 1/plant…..if ¼â€ tubing is used, different emitters are required and cannot be disassembled to dislodge solids……..100 emitters
    http://amzn.to/1SSDAZO
17. 14 minutes 56 seconds: Tube anchors(1 roll)—#9 galvanized wire bent into u-shape to stabilize drip tube
    https://redbrandstore.com/products/galvanized-smooth-wire-9-gauge-1701?matchtype=e&network=o&device=c&adposition={adposition}&keyword=&msclkid=6f6d96a4e66e1554cbf1ca9a9d6fafb7&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Product%20Specific%20Non%20Branded%20(Bid%3A%20Med.,%20Prior%3A%20High).&utm_term=4582420869411685&utm_content=All%20Products%201
18. 15 minutes 30 seconds: ½â€ hose end plug (removed for flushing system and seasonal blow out)—to eliminate end plug cost, from a scrap piece of ½â€ poly cut a ½â€ length piece to substitute for the end plug….by bending the pipe back on itself and slipping the small ½â€ piece over the bent section, it will cut off the water supply and serve the same purpose as the end plug
    https://www.amazon.com/Hose-End-Plug-Cap-pack/dp/B000BO76G6/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1547620521&sr=8-13&keywords=1%2F2+hose+plug
19. 8 minutes 27 seconds: ½â€ ball valve (10)(poly & PVC)
    https://www.dripdepot.com/item/irritec-perma-loc-tubing-coupling-valve-size-half-inch…poly
    https://www.amazon.com/Antelog-15MM-Green-Back-Valve/dp/B079SMBDRL/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1547621090&sr=8-5&keywords=drip+irrigation+valve+1%2F2…’poly
    https://www.amazon.com/PVC-COMPACT-BALL-VALVE-Sanipro/dp/B076GF9SGJ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1547621206&sr=8-3&keywords=1%2F2+ball+valve+pvc…PVC
20. NOTE: if any PVC pipe is exposed, burying it will increase its lifespan, or utilize schedule 80 pipe as it is UV resistant and lasts much longer. To winterize the system blowout water lines with a compressor, remove all parts from hose bib then close up any open end lines.

FOOD FOREST ESTABLISHMENT

Given enough time every ecosystem ends up like a forest. This is the end point of ecological succession; a point where the ecosystem becomes stable or self-perpetuating as a climax community and without any major disturbances endures indefinitely. This is exactly the result you want with your own food forest creation. To achieve a low maintenance abundance of fruit, nuts, berries and herbs you’ll want to create a forest-like system where fertility comes from various sources, where you’re greatly aided by fungi, where wildlife is your primary pest control, where soil holds water like a sponge, and where you have a high diversity of plants. You want a carefully designed and maintained ecosystem of useful plants that emulate conditions found in a forest. This emulation is highly dependent on observation of what is growing on your land or nearby and duplicating the foundation which leads to ecological succession. The link below provides a good step-by-step process that includes:

1. Goals of the food forest
2. Observation of the existing ecosystem
3. Design layout and plant selection
4. Site preparation
5. Plant sourcing and planting

https://permacultureapprentice.com/creating-a-food-forest-step-by-step-guide/

Here are two links regarding nitrogen fixation and how to increase the fixation rate:
https://permaculturenews.org/2015/12/28/3-nitrogen-fixing-trees-for-snowy-regions/
https://permaculturenews.org/2014/09/25/increase-rate-biological-nitrogen-fixation/

HUGELKULTUR CONSTRUCTION

Our hugelkultur beds will serve two purposes. First to recycle large branches, downfall, tree trunks and stumps, and secondly as a growing media. Some of the unruly stumps are better buried and left to rot, slowly nourishing the soil. Remove the larger roots to make the stump as compact as possible, laying them alongside the stump. The remainder of the trees, cut in smaller segments, will be utilized in growing beds, creating superb growing conditions by providing heat, nutrition, and banking water for dryer times of the growing season. Once we complete the initial orchard and general property cleanup, we will use downfall and pruning clippings as the content of the beds, layered further with other nitrogen and carbon sources. The two primary locations for the hugel beds will be adjacent to the orchard and garden areas. Those operations will be expanded as we bring on new people and this will be an ongoing process. There are endless approaches to hugelkultur beds and YouTube has many videos to provide a clear understanding of the process.

FOOD FOR UP TO 50 PEOPLE

When the initial team of 20 has established the foundational aspects of food infrastructure the additional 30 new arrivals will, under the guidance and cooperation of the initial 20, begin setting up the long term farm animal habitat, establish a small food forest test plot, install a fueling station, and construct a maintenance building to safeguard our equipment and service our mechanical needs.

Here are the action items (in order) for this stage of the food infrastructure rollout:

1. You will need to complete and construct every aspect for the bees and apiary.
2. You will need to complete and construct every aspect for the chickens and their coops.
3. You will need to complete and construct every aspect for the rabbits and their hutches.
4. You will need to complete and construct every aspect for the sheep and their shelter.
5. You will need to complete and construct every aspect for the goats and their shelter.
6. Stock pond
   If you plan on eating fish or aquatic plants, you will want to stock the pond according to the link provided. Otherwise, this step is not recommended.
7. Order and plant food forest
8. Food forest test plot
   1. 6 volunteers
      1. Fencing—Distances between Posts—As a general rule, posts should be spaced 20 feet apart to support polypropylene deer fencing and 15 feet apart to support metal hexagrid or welded wire deer fencing. There are exceptions (as when trees are being used as posts—if we can do that on the 30 x 30 plot we will save the labor and costs of posts), and the distances involved should not be regarded as iron-clad. For instance, if a side of your metal hexagrid fence is 32 feet long, use 1 post in the middle rather than two unless you anticipate severe strains on the fence…………on the other hand, it has been stated that 5-8′ spacing is adequate…….i based the number of posts on 5′ spacing but 10′ may be just fine——https://www.invisible-deer-fence.com/index.htm there is plenty of info on this sight……they sell various fence kits, shipping is free over 90.00, depending on the type of fence, offer price/foot costs, will match competitors costs, say a deer will not go over a 7′ fence but i don’t believe that, have extensions to go to 10′ height, and much more info……our temp fencing for the test plot can be polypropylene……goat pen fencing will have to be more durable and they do offer welded wire fencing
         1. Post digging and installation, vinyl fencing installation—four 8-hour days, 6 volunteers—48 hrs x 4 days = 192 hrs
         2. Rock and gravel retrieval—two 8-hour days, 6 volunteers—48 hrs x 2 days = 96 hrs
      2. Food forest establishment
         1. Digging, planting, watering, mulching—two 8-hour days, 6 volunteers—48 hrs x 2 days = 96 hrs
   2. Materials & Equipment3 (spear head spade) shovels with fiberglass handles…
      1. 3 pulaskis with fiberglass handles
      2. 2 four-tine garden spade forks with fiberglass handles
      3. 1.5 cubic yards compost
      4. 50-100 gallons of water —for what time period? to water in plants when first planted, periodic watering will occur the first 2 or 3 years to establish root systems
      5. 6-five-gallon buckets
      6. Tractors
         1. John Deere 4230 or equivalent for pulling stumps, snow removal (plow attachment), front end loader attachment for moving soil, gravel, leveling ground, etc. (http://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/000/0/8/80-john-deere-4230.html) some of our needs will be easier met with a smaller tractor…….perhaps a cross between a small and medium tractor will allow us to work in smaller areas…..with our permaculture perspective the latter mentioned tractor may be suitable, but on the construction phase they would not be as practical and that might warrant renting the larger pieces of equipment………but for the size of our project an excavator and dozer will get a tremendous amount of use….
         2. John Deere 4052M Heavy Duty Compact Utility Tractor”Tractor with chipper and trailer attachments—we need a hefty medium-sized tractor with a chipper that can handle up to 4″- 6″ branches. I expect we’ll need a couple different sized trailers for the property in general. A sturdy eight foot trailer will work, if there is room, a 16′ trailer will work…..when the food forest on a larger scale is implemented, the terrain will determine our needs….our only access may be by walking in everything, perhaps a 4-wheeler will work…….It all depends on access….i am not capable of determining the specific needs of this equipment, we need someone who works with this and knows the availability of parts in the area and who can work on this equipment if we do own it…..
      7. Chipper http://www.caravaggi.com/bio-400-2/?lang=en bio 400 chipper shredder
      8. 10 cubic yards woodchip/leaf mulch
      9. Plant materials (property dependent and determined after property purchase and visual land survey)
      10. 150′-10′ vinyl fencing
      11. Zip ties
      12. 50′-roll #9 galvanized wire
      13. 24-steel fence posts…..what kind?…..…..we want 10′ fences and the posts will have to be pounded in perhaps 2’……..our pioneer fencer should spec this out……if we can utilize the trees we will not require fence posts
      14. Gravel and rock (collected from property)
      15. Power auger (as tractor attachment)…..https://www.amazon.com/Dirty-Hand-Tools-100623-Three-point/dp/B00MGTBVXI/ref=asc_df_B00MGTBVXI/?tag=bingshoppinga-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid={creative}&hvpos={adposition}&hvnetw=o&hvrand={random}&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=e&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl={devicemodel}&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4583520382246077&psc=1                                                                              OR                                                                                                                            https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/NTESearchstoreId=6970&N=0&Ntk=All&Ntt=post+hole+auger&Nty=1&D=post+hole+auger&Ntx=mode+matchallpartial&Dx=mode+matchallpartial&cmnosearch=PPC&utm_source=bing_PPC&utm_medium=FarmAcreage&utm_campaign=generic&utm_content=post%20hole%20auger&mkwid=G32rQt1O&pcrid=73804820727349&mtype=be&devicetype=c&msclkid=87db8b7c98601b7a0e46d75e69130e69                                                                   Quick Info
   3. Both of these examples operate off a 3-point hitch on the rear of a tractor………….
   4. Here is a hand held power auger that operates with a 2-cycle mix found here: https://shop.bestreviews.com/products/ecoworthy-52cc-power-engine-25hpgaspoweredpostholedigger8augerbitsuscid=277776167&aid=1208363384103937&eid=&tid=pla 4579122332981186&ul=&mt=e&n=o&d=c&dm{devicemodel}&dt&sn&adid{creative}&k=&p{placement}&pc{target}&ap{adposition}&msclkid=fe168b455f3b1084748bd767adf17251&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=%5BUS%5D%20Bing%20Shopping&utm_term=4579122332981186&utm_content=Dehumidifier
      1. brand preference…..the equipment/mechanic guy should decide this
      2. 3 manual post hole diggers…..with fiberglass handles
      3. 3 six foot steel pry bars
      4. 1 box flagging tape
      5. Chainsaw……this i know……stihl or husqvarna…..i am familiar with stihl so that is my choice—they are both quality saws and i have used both….purchase the equivalent model to the old stihl 034 model—it is a good overall saw……
      6. Chaps
      7. Helmet with ear protection and facial mesh shield
      8. Chainsaw tool kit — there should be one dedicated chainsaw tool kit and dolmar for every saw we own https://docs.google.com/document/d/1soIa8Bz2xfuOJ4yidNtEHphj02uB45rVlFRLcR7F5DA/edit pages 3 & 4
      10. Bar oil—volume?……buy a case of it, we will use it on various projects and it will not go bad…..
      11. Split dolmar
      12. Fuel stabilizer—get a small container to begin with
      13. 2 cycle mix oil & non-ethanol gas—how much?……like the bar oil, buy a case of the 2-cycle mix……don’t hold gas over to the next season, use it as needed…….no way to determine accurately this amount…….a few gallons to start                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                  NOTE FROM THE AUTHOR: items such as bar oil, fuel for chainsaws and equipment, and water will be on hand on the property at all times—–we will have 2 approved fuel tanks—one for normal fuel and the other for off-road fuel(this off-road fuel is discounted & dyed and not to be used in vehicles that go off the property), though we should utilize a non-ethanol fuel for small equipment …..nobody knows how much we will use until after the work is done……it is the same as asking how many times are you going to pee next year and what volume will be generated—you’ll pee when you pee and i doubt you can anticipate the gallonage…….measuring the amount of water we need for the plants is the same—nobody knows how often or what volume of water we will require…..we simply have to have a very generous supply of water…….the food forest plants will be watered for the first 2-3 years on a regular basis, after that they are on their own…….
9. Fuel storage
10. Maintenance buildings

UP TO 20 PERSON FOOD IMPLEMENTATION DETAILS

BEES

Acquire bees, supplemental feed, and necessary equipment during spring season only. For information about the apiary set- up, see this complete webpage.

CHICKENS

Upon arrival to our property we will designate various locations for each separate activity. One of those activities is raising chickens, and in our case, for both eggs and meat. Initially we will purchase eggs but when the first group of 50 Pioneers are on the property we will construct a chicken coop. The big question among most, “How many chickens should I begin with?”. Though there are numerous influential factors, a good rule of thumb for free range chickens at a moderate stocking density is 50 hens per acre. At this density of 50 hens per acre, the hens will add 2.5 tons of manure per acre per year, equivalent to 106 pounds of nitrogen, 30 pounds of phosphorus, and 61 pounds of potassium. That’s about as much as most chicken yards can absorb unless you go to a lot of extra effort. At moderate stocking densities, the manure from free-range hens acts as fertilizer, helping the grass grow. But at high densities, it’s too much, killing the grass instead.

A hen will lay 5-6 eggs per week in good weather but the rate can slow to 0-2 eggs per week in cold weather. Let’s say we have 5 eggs/week/chicken x 50 hens = 250 eggs/week. According to statista, the average egg consumption per capita in the U.S. from 2000-2018 was about 260 eggs/person. 260 eggs / 52 weeks = 5 eggs / week which translates to the number of eggs one person consumes / week, therefore, for every resident we should have one chicken. With a winter slowdown in egg production we will require more chickens. Therefore, if we add another 25 chickens that takes us to 75. Our initial approach of 1.5 chickens per resident will account for the seasonal egg fluctuations, the egg laying potential of particular breeds, losses due to predators, chicken harvesting, etc. Naturally some people will consume more eggs and others less, but this provides a starting point. As our resident numbers increase so will the chicken population, but our starting point is 1.5 chickens/person. As chickens are generally good layers for 2-3 years, we will replace about ⦜ – ½ of our chickens each year. But with scurrying chickens about your plot of land, how does one distinguish between “Bertha” and “Genevieve” and remember their ages? An easy alternative is to select a different colored breed each year and with a quick glance one easily determines who is the next culled out for dinner. All these numbers will be adjusted once we are on the property and the chicken quantity will affect the size and numbers of chicken coop(s).

In addition to our main coop, we will have mobile units on wheels that are transported to new grazing grounds and prevent overgrazing and ultimately utilizing the manure benefits to help build and enrich soil. The cyclical rotation will integrate well into our permaculture approach with the land. Here are some chicken coop plans that will provide some ideas for your project:

1. https://www.thespruce.com/free-chicken-coop-plans-1357113
2. http://www.todaysplans.net/TarterFarm-ChickenCoop.pdf
3. https://easycoops.com/

If you want an upscale product check out this site: https://carolinacoops.com/. Carolina Coops Service travels throughout the U.S. and Canada and will deliver and set up or ship to you anywhere in the world for self assembly. They also build custom coops to accommodate any number of animals. Beyond chickens they also modify the structures for rabbits and turkeys. They can be reached at 919.794.3989 and will address all your questions and concerns, or email: [email protected]. They accept payments, interest free, but request the coop be paid in full prior to shipping or delivery. As of 2016 they were working on providing available plans.

The first six minutes of this video demonstrate a large scale mobile chicken tractor capable of holding well over 100 chickens. Specific plans are not included here but worth the familiarity factor.

Here is a company that makes a moveable poultry coop: http://www.westernsquare.com “The CoopMaster Chicken Coop Durable – Attractive – Functional – Easy To Clean. This coop is built to work for you. It holds 6 to 8 chickens and is built of steel. It is Tuff Guard powder coated for durability, safety, and style. The CoopMaster Chicken Coop weighs about 170 lbs, and comes fully assembled. CoopMaster Chicken Coop is the ideal housing solution for your chickens. Whether you are an avid chicken farmer wanting to grow a large scale flock on the ranch or a family with a few chickens in the backyard.

For information on chicken pluckers and building one, you can use these links as examples.

1. https://www.dineachook.com.au/blog/the-complete-guide-to-feeding-backyard-chickens/
2. https://www.onecommunityglobal.org/chickens/
3. https://www.planetwhizbang.com/poultry-processing

See this link for further info.

RESOURCES

How Many Chickens Do I Need To Keep?

http://howtobuildachickencoopmanual.com/
https://www.statista.com/statistics/183678/per-capita-consumption-of-eggs-in-the-us-since-2000/
http://www.todaysplans.net/TarterFarm-ChickenCoop.pdf
www.carolinacoops.com
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=accyX6m4xpg
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BGK1VVSmk0s
https://www.thespruce.com/free-chicken-coop-plans-1357113
https://easycoops.com/
http://www.westernsquare.com
https://www.dineachook.com.au/blog/the-complete-guide-to-feeding-backyard-chickens/
https://www.onecommunityglobal.org/chickens/
https://www.planetwhizbang.com/poultry-processing

GOATS & SHEEP

As part of our food program and when we have 20-50 residents on site we will construct a temporary shelter to house 5 milking/grazing goats. After a trial period we will make a decision as to the additional acquisition quantity of goats. If we desire to move forward with goats we will construct a permanent goat shelter for 10 that can expand to house 50 goats. If our experiences prove goats are not what we want to invest in from a labor standpoint, we will retain a herd of five grazing goats for noxious weed control. We will then consider sheep, using the same facility and expansion plans for 10 sheep, increasing to 50 and utilizing their milk and wool. We will build fenced pens and provide permanent shelter from the elements for our animals. Into this construction design we will consider heating and passive cooling, ventilation, water & feed systems, grazing and exercise areas, and a separate shed for ethical harvesting. Beyond serving as a food supply, the addition of animals is part of our overall permaculture system integrating them into land management. See this goat link for further info and sheep link for further info.

Cheese

Aside from the grazing, meat, and wool production we will experiment with both goat and sheep’s milk for making cheese. Because we will have significantly more goats than sheep, sheep’s milk will likely be the primary source for our cheesemaking operation.

Cheesemaking with goat milk

• https://www.iga-goatworld.com/uploads/6/1/6/2/6162024/how-to-make-goat-cheese.pdf – How to Make Goat Milk Cheeses
• https://cheesemaking.com/products/goat-milk-tomme-cheese-making-recipe – Goat Milk Tomme Cheese Making Recipe
• http://www.everything-goat-milk.com/goat-cheese-making.html – Goat Cheese Making

Keeping goat milk safe

• https://www.lifeslice.com/processinggoatsmilkforhumanconsumption.html#:~:text=Raw%20Milk%20Processing%20Rules,plastic%20lid%20or%20in%20bags – Handling and Processing Raw Goat Milk
• https://www.hobbyfarms.com/prepare-tasty-goats-milk-that-keeps-well-2/ – Prepare Tasty Goat’s Milk that Keeps Well

Cheesemaking with sheep milk

• https://fandbrecipes.com/sheep-milk/ – This article discusses the benefits of sheep milk cheese in comparison to both goat and cow milk cheese, highlights the benefits of sheep milk cheese, and provides a step-by-step recipe for cheese making.
• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sV2fslAYnFA – Seriously simple sheep cheese video

STOCK POND

If we have an adequate water source on our property we will consider some form of aquaculture. Much of this will be decided on the property but likely it will be more of a passive form of aquaculture where we have minimal input and simply allow Mother Nature to run its course. To initiate a commercial operation is not the direction we anticipate but if we have a few large ponds onsite we will stock these sites and attempt to create a natural environment where individuals can catch their occasional meal if they so choose. If the conditions are right we will enhance an already productive aquaculture environment or help create a similar situation. The existing ecosystem, water temperatures, and overall climate will set the parameters for the type of fish we raise. Currently we are considering bass, crappie, perch, and catfish. We don’t want this to be a time intensive endeavor but one that lends itself to an outdoor educational tool that creates a pleasant, aesthetic environment with the benefit of an occasional meal. See this link for further info.

FOOD FOREST

In the early spring, you will want to start planting your food forest. https://www.onecommunityglobal.org/food-forest/

Food Forest Materials List:

1. Digging spade
2. Compost
3. Plant materials
4. ID tags
5. Black permanent marker
6. Brown leaves
7. Rabbit manure
8. Water
9. 15-20 five gallon buckets
10. Wood chip mulch

Our food forest creation will be implemented in multiple stages. The initial layout upon arriving on the property will be a 30′ x 30′ planted plot designed to test our single layer fencing effectiveness against the local wildlife population, which may include deer, raccoons, skunks, rabbits, etc. We will plant this plot with a sampling of our garden vegetables and fruit trees to determine the fencing measures we must undertake to minimize crop loss.

Stage 2 will occur in the second growing season on a ¼-½ acre plot. If the single layer fencing is inadequate we will construct double fencing with an approximate five foot separation. This plot will be as varied as possible in geography, sun and shade exposure, water availability, soil type, rock outcroppings, existing vegetation, etc. For example, on this plot we may have a combination of flat and sloping areas with rock outcroppings and direct sun exposure as well as shade from shrubs and trees, a riparian area with rich soils leading off to a sandy soil region with little moisture, and areas of concentrated plant species diminishing to maximally spaced and scattered vegetation with a more open feel. With this variation we will create precise micro climates that will encourage a wide variety of plants. To expedite the natural plant succession we will provide a leaf and possibly wood chip mulch (a byproduct of our fire fuel mitigation) to retain moisture, suppress weeds, and enhance soil microbial growth.

By this time we will have already constructed a starter house for plants and our composting program will be in full operation, allowing us to provide immediate nourishment for our new food forest plantings. To help protect the new plantings we will fence this area to prevent overgrazing of our test plot. Simultaneously, along the inner and outer sides and between the fence lines we will plant species that are not favored by wildlife, introduce barbed plantings that deter wildlife, and maintain a few delectables on the exterior to keep the browsers at bay and outside the newly planted test plot.

In some areas we will implement side by side plantings to test how far off center we can stretch our hardiness zone. This will create small micro climates for better adapting borderline species by utilizing natural thermal mass, cooler moist shaded areas, and warmer dry exposed areas. As our food forest takes root we will continually expand the perimeter with the overall objective of including a considerable portion of the property we occupy. This naturally improves soil health and attracts beneficial insects, fungi, and wildlife, creating a healthy interactive ecosystem that feeds and nourishes itself.

FUEL STORAGE

Fuel storage on site will enhance our efficiency when operating various types of equipment throughout construction and everyday property maintenance. We will have tanker supplied fuel delivered and pumped directly into our above ground fuel storage tanks. The fuel storage tanks and maintenance building will be in close proximity for convenience. Our oft-used larger machinery will be refueled daily at day’s end so all equipment is ready for immediate use or if an emergency necessitates immediate relocation. The tanks and their installation on concrete pads will be EPA approved and situated so wildland fire poses no threat, nor will the steel clad maintenance building be in danger of catching fire.

Primarily we will utilize two 550 gallon split tanks; one for unleaded regular fuel and non-ethanol fuel, the other for diesel and off-road diesel. The off-road colored diesel is priced lower and used on farm and ranch situations. This equipment is not operated on public roadways. The non-ethanol fuel is used in 2-cycle engines, with a marine-grade fuel stabilizer, to reduce wear and tear on carburetors. A log book will reveal the date, quantity of fuel, and the particular piece of equipment utilizing the fuel. Once we have a better idea of our fuel consumption we can budget our fuel expenses and determine necessary delivery timeframes.

Southern Tank:

https://www.southerntank.net/
https://www.southerntank.net/farm-tanks/
https://www.southerntank.net/fireguard-tanks/

Our general thoughts lead in this direction:

1. Above ground storage tanks vs. below ground
2. Stainless steel with fire protection considerations
3. Fuel storage for diesel, regular unleaded gas, & off-road regular unleaded
4. Possible split fuel tanks may save us some money, but further research is required
5. Safety and EPA approved considerations—most of these companies selling fuel tanks probably have all these regulations on file
6. Seismic considerations, though we believe this will not be a major issue as the tanks would be mounted on a concrete slab and secured with hurricane ties. Wherever we purchase these tanks, the company will probably have everything covered from a safety & regulations standpoint. It will be a textbook installation and then an inspection by the local authorities, followed by subsequent periodic inspections.
7. These are 550 gallon tanks, double-wall steel, that have fork lift access for ease of mobility—if we have a front end fork attachment for the tractor that would allow relocation.

A starting point for anyone looking for more fuel tank options, visit this link.

MAINTENANCE BUILDING

For general equipment maintenance we will have an inventory system covering most commonly used hardware and parts and a preventive maintenance checklist. Primary features of this building include:
(SUBMIT A QUICK QUOTE FORM) for a 40x80x20 steel insulated shop building with a bathroom, office, and 220 3-phase (https://www.metalbuildingoutlet.com/thankyou-freequote.html)

We will construct a maintenance building for year-round equipment storage and service located near our fuel storage area. Staffed with a qualified mechanic this ensures continued operation, especially during the lengthy building phase.

1. Commercial steel construction fully insulated with concrete floors
2. Dedicated bays for mechanical maintenance
3. Complete tool inventory
4. Heated & vented
5. Proper floor drains in appropriate work areas
6. 220/ 3-phase
7. Welding area (vented)
8. Insulated roll up doors accompanied by walk-in double door entry
9. 20′ ceilings(minimum)
10. Vertical storage with forklift access/pallet storage
11. Bathroom
12. Office

Preventive maintenance will include regularly scheduled inspections, tests, servicing, replacements, repairs, and other tasks intended to reduce the impact and frequency of equipment failures. This includes scheduled preventive maintenance, predictive maintenance, and inspections. Our objectives of a preventive maintenance program are to:

• Identify maintenance actions on equipment and incorporate that into our preventive maintenance program
• Minimize corrective and breakdown maintenance with scheduled equipment maintenance checks

A preventive maintenance program should be well defined, periodically reviewed, and adjusted as necessary. To ensure proper implementation, procedures should be written in sufficient detail for each piece of equipment. Our purpose is to maintain the equipment in optimum working condition and to minimize any unplanned downtime due to breakdowns. Because components start to wear over time, replacing items prior to failure may cost far less than the potential consequences of failure while in service. Preventing problems from occurring will almost always be far less than the costs incurred due to actual failures.

RESOURCES
https://www.grainger.com/content/kc-gen-article-a-preventive-maintenance-checklist

FOOD FOR UP TO 100 PEOPLE

The third team arrival will occur over a period of time with individuals arriving randomly. These people will be integrated into the community and perform duties necessary to expand the current food supply. This means expanding the hoop house and outdoor growing operations to satisfy the food requirements for up to 100 community members. Beyond that they will utilize their existing skills and learn additionally by their daily participation in all our activities. Another area of attention at this stage involves ongoing maintenance of our entire operation, the complete building and grounds infrastructure.

Here are the action items (in order) for this stage of the food infrastructure rollout:

1. Wildland fire prevention
   1. Ladder fuel removal by chainsaw
   2. Dropping dangerous snags but leaving those away from working areas for wildlife habitat
   3. Maintaining helispot location marking for fire & safety issues
2. Addressing any erosion issues throughout the property by establishing LEB’s (log erosion bars) to properly channel runoff https://www4.des.state.nh.us/SoakNH/wp-content/uploads/2020/03/water-bar.pdf
3. Exterior maintenance of existing buildings
4. Conduct yearly water quality testing
5. Expand apiary production
6. Yearly orchard pruning & expansion
   1. If fencing is inadequate to keep critters out, consider solar electric enhancement
7. Yearly seed starts for hoop houses
8. Expand food forest and add additional fencing
9. Assess unpaved roads for necessary gravel/grading/culvert issues
10. Construct water lab set- up
    1. Obtain water lab equipment from this spreadsheet

FOOD FOR UP TO 400 PEOPLE

We don’t really know the growth rate of One Community but once we surpass the 100 participant level, expecting up to 400 people, these Pioneers will conduct similar duties as their predecessors of the third team, but to a larger degree and more intensively. With additional infrastructure, there will likely be a few major repairs and more upkeep shared by everyone on the property. Much of this will involve our growing operations:

1. Botanical Gardens
2. Aquapini/Walipinis
3. https://www.onecommunityglobal.org/aquaculture/
4. https://www.onecommunityglobal.org/tropical-atrium-planting-and-harvesting/#planting-plan

FOOD FOR OVER 400 PEOPLE

Beyond the 5-year period of occupying the property and after establishing a productive agricultural system that leads to agricultural production beyond our needs, we will create a Saturday market open to visitors and locals which will supplement the ongoing expansion of our food needs as our community expands. We will introduce our community to state wide Chambers of Commerce, motel/hotels, schools, and various tourist related activities and along with our organic permaculture/agriculture we will include the introduction of educational programs and assorted class offerings to attract visitors.

With tourism representing a significant portion of our yearly income near the 5-year period, some of our residents will serve as tour guides on the property, narrating our formative years through the present and into the future. Much of this can be assembled as a small film created from our detailed progressive videos of fostering local partnerships, building construction, agricultural production, educational programs, etc. Those willing can experience hands-on activities, as they wish, to partake. Our goal here is to engage others in a wholesome family friendly sharing experience.

RESOURCES

• All About Drying Food
• 22 Foods You Can Store in Root Cellars
• Open Source Large-scale Soil Amendment Hub
• Open Source Food Forest Creation Hub
• How to Test Seeds for Viability Article
• Open Source Large-scale Gardening Hub
• Open Source Botanical Garden Creation Hub
• Open Source Hoop House Creation Hub
• Open Source Aquapini and Walipini Creation Hub
• Permies.com Seed and Plant Source Review Grid
• Excellent video: “Corner post installation and bracing”
• Article: “How To Choose A Greenhouse Material”
• 100 Nursery/Plant Providers Organized Into Categories
• Experimenting with dig and no-dig garden beds article
• Vegetable Gardening For Dummies Cheat Sheet
• Article: 66 Things you Can Grow at Home In Containers
• A Crop-by-Crop Guide to Growing Organic Vegetables and Fruits
• How Much Do I Need to Plant to Feed My Family Article
• 100+ Heirloom, Organic, and Other Seed Suppliers/Providers
• A Site with 30+ Free Permaculture (and related) Book Downloads
• Article: “Backyard Bounty: How to Eat the Wild Plants in Your Yard”
• Article: “Plant Nutrients: What They Need and When They Need It”
• Article: “The Scientifically-backed Benefits of Companion Planting”
• “Getting Rid of Garden Pests” – includes “Plants that Naturally Repel Pests”
• 1000’s of Canning and Preserving Recipes Searchable by Ingredient
• Over 2000 Canning Recipes Complete with Ratings and User Reviews
• 32-page PDF: Selecting, Preparing, & Canning Fruit – Includes Recipes
• Sourcing and Saving Seeds | Seed Providers | Plant Material Providers
• Gardening: A Comprehensive Guide From Planning to Harvesting, and More
• Seed Starting-Date, Succession Planting, and Target Harvest Date Calculators
• “A Complete Guide: How To Grow Strawberries and 10 Best Strawberry Recipes”
• Canning and Preserving by Category: Jams, Pickling, Fruit Butters, and Relishes
• All About Home Canning, Freezing, and Making Jams and Jellies (resource of resources)
• Paul Wheaton Podcast: “Urban Permaculture Realism” A lot here, click for summary
• A great overview video for how to create a climate battery for your greenhouse
• A short overview video about using compost to heat your greenhouse
• Article: “Grow an indoor herb garden: easily, sustainably and veganically”
• Free Online Course: Introduction to Permaculture | Course Book
• Paul Wheaton Podcasts with Joseph Lofthouse on Plant Breeding Part 1 | Part 2
• Club Drop Point- Azure Standard
• How to Compost at Home- Step by Step Instructions
• Video: Installing Drip Irrigation Systems for Raised Beds
• Video: Introduction to No- Dig Gardens
• The Concerns of using Cardboard as Newspaper with Mulch
• Common Forages and their Nutritional Information
• Article: All About Orchardgrass
• Article: About Ruth Stout
• Article: The Ruth Stout System
• Carolina Coops
• Creating Food Forest- A Step by Step Guide
• Nitrogen Fixing Trees for Snowy Areas
• Article: Increasing the Rate of Biological Nitrogen Fixation
• Invisible deer fencing
• Statistics: Amount of Eggs Consumed by Americans
• DIY Chicken Coops
• Blueprints: Tarter Chicken House
• Chicken Coop Plans
• Video: How to Easily Move 160 Chickens
• Blog: Feeding Backyard Chickens and Hens
• How to Make Poultry Processing Tools
• DIY Rabbit Hutches
• 8 More DIY Rabbit Hutch Plans
• Step by Step Rabbit Hutch Plans
• Rabbit Hutch Plans for Cold Weather
• Article: Healthy Food Diet for Rabbits
• Article: Best Vegetables for Rabbits
• PDF: How to Make Cheese from Goat Milk
• Goat Milk Tomme Cheese Making Recipe
• The Basics of Making Goat Cheese
• How to Process Goat Milk for Human Consumption
• How to Prepare Tasty Goats Milk that Keeps Well
• Step by Step Recipe for Making Sheep’s Milk
• Super Simple Video: How to make Sheep’s Milk
• Article: A Preventive Maintenance Checklist
• PDF: How to Make DIY Water Bar
• Have something you think should be added here? Click HERE to tell us about it

Here are some great videos showing both what is possible and why you might want to care:

SUMMARY

One Community wants to help people to grow their own high quality and diverse food. We believe if we can make this easy enough, affordable enough, and attractive enough, it will provide a clear path to increasing health, biodiversity, and individual and global food security. It also has the potential to revolutionize the way people look at and interact with the food they eat. As part of our self-replicating and self-sufficient teacher/demonstration communities, villages, and cities model, this could also address world hunger.

 

FREQUENTLY ANSWERED QUESTIONS

Q: Is One Community going to be a vegetarian community?

The One Community team consists of vegans, vegetarians, and omnivores. In accordance with our philosophy for The Highest Good of All we are maintaining a non-idealogical approach to food choices. That said, also in accordance with this philosophy, we will only support and consume food items that are ethically and sustainably raised, managed, and produced. The consensus process will be used to decide the evolution of the One Community food plan.

Q: I’m an omnivore or vegan, what if I don’t want to eat a vegan or omnivore diet?

The complete food self-sufficiency transition plan is designed to meet the needs of all dietary preferences through:

1. Recipes that can be made vegan or omnivore:
   1. Vegan recipes were chosen that could easily have animal-based proteins added for omnivores
   2. Omnivore recipes were chosen that could easily be made with 100% vegan ingredients
2. Alternating weeks of omnivore and vegan focused menus: The weeks are alternating so that we could design complete 1-week menus for each dietary preference to provide complete menus for both philosophies AND so that groups containing mixed preferences would have an equal way of focusing on each dietary preference for a week while still providing for the other preference as per #1 above. They alternate to address any concerns that recipes aren’t as good when a vegan recipe is made omnivore just by adding animal protein, or an omnivore recipe is made vegan just by replacing all animal-based ingredients.

In this way all dietary preferences can be provided, any sacrifices are shared in alternating weeks, and groups completely preferring vegan or omnivore options have clear menus they can follow for both choices.

Q: How do you intend to produce spices, mill grain for flour, cooking oil, etc. etc.

To us, “100% food sustainability” means we will demonstrate and open source share a model that doesn’t need external food sources. Having achieved this, what we produce internally versus choosing to buy will be decided through the consensus process.

Q: What is One Community’s stance on pesticides, herbicides, and fungicides?

If it is not safe to eat, we will not be spraying it on our food. Here’s a video we feel is helpful in understanding why:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Q: Can people choose not to eat in the group dining hall?

Yes, the Duplicable City Center will provide group dining space and the kitchen, where people choose to eat is up to the individual.

Q: Would we be allowed to have a hot plate stove (single burner)/microwave/toaster oven in our private residence if we wished to cook apart from the rest of the community from time to time? 

Yes, people can supply their individual residences with these items if they want to.

Q: Do you plan to raise cows or other large grazing animals for milk or food.

Probably not due to the sustainability issues with this approach to food. This could however change if agreed upon through the consensus process.

Q: What if I want something that isn’t on the community menu?

The community menu will be agreed upon through the consensus process. If a person wanted something not included on that menu, then they would be welcome to purchase and provide it for themselves.

Q: What if you are unable to meet your timelines for food self-sustainability?

We have funds built into our business plan to provide food for an additional year if necessary.

Q: I’m vegetarian/vegan, would I have to participate in any part of the process or raising animals for food and/or eating/cooking them?

No, you would not have to participate in any aspect of One Community’s food diversity that didn’t agree with your personal beliefs and preferences.

Q: What sets One Community apart from similar projects?

One Community's open source project-launch blueprinting strategy and the fact that we are open sourcing and addressing ALL elements of society simultaneously are a combination unique to our organization. Together, these will help others duplicate what we do and create self-propagating teacher/demonstration communities, villages, and cities capable of positively impacting every single person on this planet within one generation.

Q: What sets One Community's open source goals apart from similar projects?

To our knowledge, no other project exists that is providing the comprehensive nature and detail of everything we are open source project-launch blueprinting.

Q: What is the specific One Community short-term goal?

1. Become a world leader in global-solution information content within 6 months of moving onto the property as detailed in our open source project-launch blueprinting page.
2. Expand within 5 years to a community of 200 full-time residents producing ongoing tools, resources, and tutorials while hosting thousands of annual visitors as outlined in our long-term vision page.
3. Define the global-solution industry itself as an open source industry, expanding mainstream awareness, appeal, and desire for comprehensive sustainability by demonstrating and sharing a more attractive and fulfilling way of living that people can have if they desire to create it also.
4. Teach as many people as possible to duplicate and/or evolve our global transformation model.

Q: What is the ultimate One Community long-term goal?

To transform our world into a sustainable and happier one through teacher/demonstration communities, villages, and cities to be built all over the world. We will work with these hubs as our open source partners and fellow leaders of the open source, Highest Good of All, and sustainable planet movement leading to a New Golden Age of cooperation, collaboration, innovation, creativity, sustainable living, and increased happiness for the entire human organism.

Q: How are you funding One Community?

We are still seeking funding. Please see our Funding Related Details Page.

Q: Where will One Community be located and why?

Click HERE for property details that include why we have chosen the location we have.

Q: How far is One Community in the creation process?

Visit our progress page for a regularly updated list of our accomplishments and progress. Visit our blog for our on-going mini-updates and weekly summaries of accomplishments and progress.

Q: Why not just build a small-scale prototype home or community that includes a minimum-scale revenue-generating demonstration/operation? Wouldn't this get things going faster?

This small-scale operation already exists as Airbnb. What we see as missing is a complete model for self-sufficiency that is open source and reasonably replicable. Even complete models for self-sufficiency already exist in the form of the many eco-villages out there. What none of those offer though is any sort of understanding and/or path for how average people can replicate them. We also think there isn't enough of a compelling reason for most people to bother with changing how they live now to engage such a path/project, so our project is purposed to provide and demonstrate that too.

From a total global-change perspective though, we think it is even more important to create a permanent example:

• Dedicated to open source
• Capable of providing for the complete needs of hundreds of people.
• Providing the support needed so residents can work together on open source creation full-time.
• Revenue generation and space for expansion to grow to over a 1000+ full-time resident-volunteers.
• Able to support the establishment of other open source teacher/demonstration/R&D hubs around the world.

This is why the intended property, village models, social architecture and economic focuses are all big. To support faster and broader implementation, we are also developing everything so it is modular and implementable as individual components. This will allow for anyone who doesn't desire the full teacher/demonstration hub approach to have options too, but our primary goal is to demonstrate the complete teacher/demonstration hub as easy enough, affordable enough, and attractive enough for average people with average means to want to replicate it and/or use what we provide to build their own version.

Q: If you are giving everything away through open source, how do you intend to make money?

Our model is designed to prosper specifically because we are giving everything away through open source project-launch blueprinting. We accomplish this through eco-tourism marketed with the open source infrastructure we have already created and other supported revenue streams outlined on our revenue streams page. All of this further promotes our model of spreading sustainability and actively promoting and distributing even more open source blueprints for duplication by as many people as possible.

Q: How will this help people in Third World countries and other areas that need resources most?

Using the four-phase strategy above, we wish to demonstrate building a teacher/demonstration community, village, and/or city as profitable for large investors and/or a way for small groups of people to pool what resources they have and get out of debt. We see this spreading and bringing resources to the areas that need them most because building these villages in these areas will be more affordable and easier to do with less building restrictions.

Q: How do you stop the model from being totally capitalized without the positive intent of the original model? 

We are not focused on putting limitations on the use of everything we are creating because of our open source commitment. We will, however, directly support any organization contributing specifically to open source project-launch blueprinting and operating for The Highest Good of All.

Q: Where would I find a more detailed description of how this works?

Please visit our About Us page, Methodology page, and Site Map for more comprehensive descriptions and links to complete details for every aspect of One Community.

Q: What about safety?

We consider a community of 500 people with shared goals and vision more safe than current living models. We think even a group of 50 people working together can handle any reasonable challenge. 

 

CONSULTANTS ON THE HIGHEST GOOD FOOD DESIGNS

Avery Ellis: Aquaponics Specialist and owner/operator of Integrated Aquaponics
Bear Stauss: Horticulturalist and Landscape Design/Recreation Area Management Specialist
Benjamin Sessions: Strategic Sales and Real Estate Development Entrepreneur and Food Connoisseur
Bupesh Seethala: Architectural Drafter & Designer, BS Electrical Engineering (BupeshSeethala.com)
Charles McLean: Architecture & Urban Agriculture Designer, Professor, and owner of OM Greengroup
David Sweet: Architect (DSweet.biz)
Douglas Simms Stenhouse: Architect and Water Color Artist (see: transparentwatercolor.com)
Jae Sabol: Certified Permaculture Designer, Project Manager, and Holistic Health Professional
Kim Braman: Apiary and Beekeeping Expert
Ron Payne: HVAC / Thermal Designer, Mechanical Engineer
Sandra Sellani: Business Author, Speaker, Consultant, and Vegan Chef
Tatyana Tertitsa: Organic Gardener, Natural Builder, and 3D Sketchup Designer
Zdenek Jurik: P.E. Structural, Civil and Mechanical Engineer and founder of ABC Engineering

 

OPTIONS FOR PARTICIPATION

SUGGESTIONS | CONSULTING | MEMBERSHIP | OTHER OPTIONS